FoundryInk Academy Academy / Animation course
Animation course

Bring Your Art Into the Studio

You do not have to draw inside FoundryInk to animate inside FoundryInk. If you already have a character, a prop, or a painted background, you can bring it in and give it bones. The method is to import each moving part as its own Image row, place the parts in the right order, and then use Rig this image to build a posable copy. This page covers the whole path from a folder of art to a rig you can pose.

Read time about 15 min

1Why bring art in as separate parts

A puppet moves because its pieces move independently: an arm swings without dragging the whole body, a jaw drops without the eyes sliding. To get that, each part has to sit on its own layer. In the Animation studio, a layer that holds a picture is an Image row, so a two-arm, one-head character usually ends up as several Image rows stacked together. In effect you cut the character apart at its joints, one image per piece, then reassemble it from those pieces.

Each body part on its own Image row: Head, Forearm R, Hand R, Upper arm and more.
Each body part on its own Image row: Head, Forearm R, Hand R, Upper arm and more.See the full screen
Prep your art before you import. Export each part (head, upper arm, forearm, torso, and so on) as its own transparent PNG so nothing carries a white box behind it.
Pro note
One picture per moving piece. That is the core of it. Cut at the elbows and knees now and posing is much easier later.

2Add your first Image row

Along the add-row bar you will find buttons for Art, Image, Tween, Vector, Character, and more. Click Image to add a fresh picture layer to your scene. It arrives empty with a default name like Image 1, and you point it at a file next. You will add one of these rows for every part of your character.

The + Image button in the add-row bar of the timeline.
The + Image button in the add-row bar of the timeline.See the full screen
The default names count up: Image 1, Image 2, Image 3. That is fine to start, but rename them to head, torso, and arm as you go so your row list reads like a body, not a spreadsheet.
Pro note
The Image button adds each picture layer. Click it once per part. Do not panic when the row shows up blank, that is normal.

3Import the picture with Import image

With the Image row selected, open the Image source panel. Click Import image and choose the file for that part. The picture drops onto the stage on that row, and from here it behaves like any other layer: it can be moved, scaled, and eventually rigged. Repeat this for each part, one file per Image row.

The Image source panel with its Import image button.
The Image source panel with its Import image button.See the full screen
Each imported part shows as a tile in Image source, here forearm-r.png.
Each imported part shows as a tile in Image source, here forearm-r.png.See the full screen
Import at a comfortable size. Very large files make the stage sluggish, and very small ones go soft when the camera pushes in. Match your art to the resolution you plan to publish at.
Pro note
Import image is the button that fills the empty row. Point it at a part, and that part is now in the studio for good.

4Fit, Fill, or Stretch

Once a picture is in, the Image source panel gives you three sizing toggles: Fit, Fill, and Stretch. Fit shows the whole image inside its frame without cropping, Fill covers the frame and may crop the edges, and Stretch forces the picture to the frame shape even if that squishes it. For a puppet part that you cut out yourself, Fit is almost always the right call because it keeps your proportions honest.

The Fit, Fill and Stretch toggles in the Image source panel.
The Fit, Fill and Stretch toggles in the Image source panel.See the full screen
Stretch is the one to avoid for characters. It distorts your art on the way in, and then bones distort it again, so you end up fighting two warps at once.
Pro note
Fit keeps it whole, Fill crops to cover, Stretch squishes to fill. For cut-out parts, Fit and only Fit.

5Place each part on the stage

A freshly imported part usually lands dead centre, so you need to slide it into position. In the Tool Options bar under the Layer tools, use Translate to set its Pos X and Pos Y, Scale to resize it, and Rotate to set its Angle. Nudge the forearm up to the elbow, the hand up to the wrist, and so on, until the whole figure lines up.

The Translate tool options: Pos X and Pos Y for the selected part.
The Translate tool options: Pos X and Pos Y for the selected part.See the full screen
Line the parts up so they overlap slightly at the joints. A small overlap at the elbow means no gap opens up when the arm bends later.
Pro note
Translate, Scale, Rotate. Three tools to slot every part into place. Overlap the joints a touch so bends stay seamless.

6Stack the rows in depth order

The order of your Image rows is the front-to-back order on screen: a row higher in the list sits in front of the rows below it. So a character's near arm goes above the torso, the torso above the far arm, and the far arm at the back. Drag the rows up and down until the stacking reads correctly, with nothing poking through that should be hidden.

The Image rows in order; a row higher in the list sits in front of the rows below.
The Image rows in order; a row higher in the list sits in front of the rows below.See the full screen
If an arm vanishes behind the body when it should be in front, you have not made a mistake in the art, you just need to raise that row above the torso row.
Pro note
Top of the list is closest to you. Reorder the rows like a stack of glass sheets until the body reads right.

7The one honest catch: no automatic layered import

If you are used to a desktop animation app, you may expect to drop in one layered file and have it explode into ready-made parts. FoundryInk does not do that yet. There is no automatic layered-file import that splits a document into a rig for you. The real workflow is the one above: export each part separately and bring it in as its own Image row. It is a few more clicks up front, and it means you always know exactly what every row holds.

The Image source panel holds each part as a separate PNG, imported one at a time.
The Image source panel holds each part as a separate PNG, imported one at a time.See the full screen
Name your exported files clearly (head.png, arm_upper.png, arm_lower.png) so the import step is a calm march down a list instead of a guessing game.
Pro note
No single file turns into a finished puppet here. Export the parts yourself and import them one by one. Slower to set up, but you stay in control.

8Turn a part into a puppet with Rig this image

A plain Image row can slide, scale, and rotate, but it cannot bend. To make a part bendy, select its row and click Rig this image. This adds a posable bone-mesh copy of the picture: FoundryInk lays an invisible mesh over your art so that when a bone moves, the pixels stretch and follow. Your original picture stays intact underneath, so nothing is destroyed.

The Rig this image button under the Image source panel.
The Rig this image button under the Image source panel.See the full screen
The Torso rig in the rigger, with bones laid over the imported parts.
The Torso rig in the rigger, with bones laid over the imported parts.See the full screen
You do not have to rig every part. A rigid prop like a sword or a coffee mug is happy as a plain Image row. Reach for Rig this image only when a piece needs to bend or squash.
Pro note
Rig this image is the moment a flat drawing becomes a puppet. It drapes a mesh over your art so bones can push the pixels around.

9Open the rigger and find Rig mode

Rigging happens in a dedicated rigger with three modes shown in the banner: Rig mode, Animate mode, and Test mode. Start in Rig mode. This is where you edit the rest skeleton, the pose your character sits in before any animation, and crucially, nothing you do here touches the timeline. It is the safe workshop where you build the bones.

The rigger banner reading Rig mode, where edits change the rest skeleton.
The rigger banner reading Rig mode, where edits change the rest skeleton.See the full screen
Rig mode is timeline-free on purpose. You can add, move, and delete bones freely without accidentally keying a pose. Build the skeleton here with a clear head.
Pro note
Three modes in the banner. Rig builds the skeleton, Animate keys poses, Test lets you wiggle without saving. Start in Rig mode.

10What the bone-mesh copy actually gives you

Once rigged, the part carries a mesh that bones can deform. When you later add a bone down the middle of an arm and bend it, the mesh stretches smoothly around the joint instead of snapping like a stiff cutout. This is the difference between a cheap paper puppet and one that feels like it has muscle. The mesh is generated for you, so you do not paint or draw it by hand.

The rigged arm bent at the elbow on the stage.
The rigged arm bent at the elbow on the stage.See the full screen
A bone-mesh part bends best when the joint has a little overlap and a little margin around the art. Very tight crops can pinch at a hard bend, so leave a small transparent border when you export.
Pro note
The mesh is what makes it work. It lets a flat drawing bend as if it had an elbow inside it, no hand-drawn frames required.

11Rig each part, or bind parts to a shared skeleton

You have two honest choices. You can rig parts individually so each one bends on its own, which is great for a face or a bendy tail. Or you can build one skeleton and attach whole parts to single bones, so a hand rides its wrist bone rigidly. The whole-layer approach uses Bind to bone, whose options are None plus the names of your bones. Rigid parts riding one bone each is the classic, sturdy cut-out puppet.

The Bind to bone setting, which attaches a whole part to one bone.
The Bind to bone setting, which attaches a whole part to one bone.See the full screen
Mix the two freely. A common recipe is rigid arm segments bound to bones, plus a bone-mesh face and a bone-mesh cloak that need to bend. Use the tool that fits the part.
Pro note
Some parts bend, some just swing. Bind the stiff bits to a bone with Bind to bone, and save the mesh for the parts that need to flex.

12Sanity-check in Test mode

Before you commit to animating, switch to Test mode and drag your bones around. Nothing you do here is saved, so it is the perfect place to find problems: a hand that detaches from a sleeve, a face that pinches, an arm that bends the wrong way. Drag every joint through its full range, watch where the mesh strains, then go back to Rig mode to fix it.

The rigger in Test mode: poses here are a preview and are not saved.
The rigger in Test mode: poses here are a preview and are not saved.See the full screen
If a joint tears or pinches in Test mode, the usual fixes are more overlap at that joint, a bone placed closer to the true pivot, or a wider strength region around the bone.
Pro note
Test mode is your crash-test dummy. Wiggle everything, break nothing. Whatever looks ugly here, go fix in Rig mode.

13What good imported art looks like

A well-imported character reads as one figure, not a pile of clip art. The parts overlap cleanly at every joint, the row order matches the body's depth so nothing pokes through, and the pieces that need to bend carry a mesh while the stiff props do not. When you drag a bone, the whole limb follows like it belongs to a single creature. That is the finish line for this stage.

An assembled character posed on the stage, reading as one figure.
An assembled character posed on the stage, reading as one figure.See the full screen
If it still looks like separate stickers, the fix is almost always more overlap at the joints and a careful pass on row order, not more rigging.
Pro note
The win is when the parts stop looking like parts. Clean overlaps, right depth order, and it moves like one creature.

14Where to go from here

Your art is in, placed, stacked, and rigged, which is the heavy lifting done. From here the fun begins: give the face a set of switchable mouth shapes so it can talk, add smart controls so limbs pose in one drag, and put spring in the hair and cloak. The next few pages in this course build directly on the puppet you just made, so keep this scene open.

Save now and give the scene a real name. You are about to spend real time animating this rig, and a named, saved scene is a scene you will not lose.
Pro note
The setup is the hard part and you just cleared it. Everything after this is play. Keep the scene open and follow the course.

Bring in your first puppet

Import, place, stack, rig. Links into the app. Saved on this device.

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Import and rig questions

Not yet. FoundryInk has no automatic layered-file import that splits a document into a rig. Export each part as its own image and bring it in on a separate Image row. It is a few more clicks, but you always know exactly what each row holds.

Your file is not transparent. Re-export the part as a PNG with a transparent background so only the art shows. A flattened image carries its background rectangle into the studio.

For a cut-out puppet part, pick Fit. It shows the whole picture without cropping or distortion. Fill can crop your edges and Stretch squishes the art, both of which fight you once bones start deforming the piece.

That is a stacking order issue, not an art issue. Drag the arm's Image row above the torso row. Rows higher in the list sit in front, so the near arm needs to be above the body it should cover.

No. Only rig the parts that need to bend or squash. Use Rig this image for a bendy face, tail, or cloak, and leave rigid props like a mug or a sword as plain Image rows, or bind them to a single bone.

Give the joint a little more overlap in your art, leave a small transparent margin around each part, and place the bone closer to the true pivot. A wider bone strength region around the joint also helps the mesh bend smoothly.

No. It adds a posable bone-mesh copy and leaves your source art intact underneath. You can rig, test, and re-rig without ever harming the imported file.

Your art is in and rigged

You brought a character in part by part, placed and stacked it into one clean figure, and turned the bendy pieces into posable bone-mesh puppets. That is the foundation of every animation you will make from imported art. Next, give that face a voice by drawing switchable mouth shapes and syncing them to sound.