FoundryInk Academy Academy / Animation course
Animation course

Frame-by-frame Layers

Rigs are great, but sometimes you just want to draw the motion, cel by cel, the way animators have since flip-books. In FoundryInk that is in the Animation studio on an Art row: every frame is its own little drawing, and you flip between them to make it move. This page walks the whole traditional workflow, roughing keys, filling breakdowns and inbetweens, onion-skinning, holding on ones or twos, and mixing hand-drawn passages with rigged characters in one scene.

Read time about 15 min

1What frame-by-frame really means

Frame-by-frame animation is exactly what it sounds like: you draw each frame of motion as a separate picture, then play them in order fast enough to fool the eye. Nothing is posed or tweened for you here, the movement is entirely in your drawings. That is more work than a rig, but it buys you total control and that hand-made wobble that rigs never quite fake. It is the right tool for smoke, splashes, a face pulling a wild expression, or any effect that is easier to draw than to build.

A frame-by-frame bouncing ball on the Animation stage, each frame its own drawing.
A frame-by-frame bouncing ball on the Animation stage, each frame its own drawing.See the full screen
Rigging and frame-by-frame are two different jobs, not rivals. Use a rig for a character you pose a hundred times, and draw by hand for the one-off moments a rig would fight you on.
Pro note
This is the oldest way to animate. Just you, a stack of drawings, and a playhead. Simple and direct.

2Add an Art row

Open the Animation studio and look at the add-row bar along the top. Click Art to drop in a hand-drawn row, this is the row where every frame holds its own drawing. Give it a clear name in the row so a scene full of rows does not turn into a guessing game. You can stack several Art rows if you want, say one for the character and one for an effect, and they play together layered front to back.

The timeline's add-row bar, with + Art adding a hand-drawn row.
The timeline's add-row bar, with + Art adding a hand-drawn row.See the full screen
The Art row is the frame-by-frame home. The other add-row buttons (Image, Vector, Character) are for posed and rigged pieces, so reach for Art whenever you mean to draw the motion yourself.
Pro note
Name the row the second you make it. Future you, three rows deep, will send a thank-you note.

3Draw this frame

Put the playhead on the frame you want, then hit Draw this frame to open the drawing surface for that exact frame. Rough your first pose loosely, do not neaten it yet, you are only finding the shape. When you step the playhead forward and use Draw again, you get a fresh blank frame to draw the next drawing into. Each frame is independent, so what you draw at frame 4 has nothing to do with frame 5 until you draw it there too.

The Frame panel's Draw this frame button, with Hold and the frame role buttons below.
The Frame panel's Draw this frame button, with Hold and the frame role buttons below.See the full screen
One frame equals one drawing. If a frame looks empty on the timeline, nothing was drawn there yet, and it will simply hold whatever drawing came before it when you play.
Pro note
Rough first, clean later. Chasing tidy lines on your first pass is how a five-second shot eats a whole weekend.

4Read the Frames timeline

Down at the bottom, the timeline view tabs let you switch how you see your scene. Stay on the Frames tab for hand-drawn work, it lays every frame out left to right so you can see which frames have drawings and which are holding. The playhead is your current frame, and the readout Frame {n} / {total} tells you where you are and how long the scene is. Click along the Frames strip to jump the playhead anywhere.

The Frames timeline: each row's frames laid out left to right, with the playhead on frame 6.
The Frames timeline: each row's frames laid out left to right, with the playhead on frame 6.See the full screen
The other tabs (Channels, Sequencer, Motion Graph) are for rigged and keyed motion. For pure drawing, Frames is the tab you will use most.
Pro note
The Frames strip lays every frame out flat. Learn to read it at a glance and the whole scene opens up.

5Rough the keys first

Do not animate straight ahead from frame one, that way lies drift and panic. Instead, draw the storytelling poses first, the key frames, spaced out across the scene. A jump might be three keys: crouch, top of the arc, landing. On each of these drawings, set the frame role to key so the timeline marks it as a pillar. Get those looking right and the whole shot is already readable before a single inbetween exists.

The frame role buttons Key, Breakdown, Extreme and Tween, with Key set on this frame.
The frame role buttons Key, Breakdown, Extreme and Tween, with Key set on this frame.See the full screen
Frame roles (key, breakdown, extreme, tween) are labels you assign per frame. They do not change playback, they organize your thinking and colour the frame on the strip so you can see your plan.
Pro note
Keys are the big storytelling poses. Get those right and the in-between drawings almost plan themselves.

6Push the extremes

An extreme is a key pushed to its furthest reach, the deepest crouch, the widest stretch, the frame where a pose is at its absolute limit. Draw these and tag their frame role extreme so you know they are the outer edges of the motion. Extremes are where you exaggerate, a little more than feels comfortable usually reads better once it is moving. They give your inbetweens a clear target to travel toward.

Frame role set to Extreme on the ball's stretched pose.
Frame role set to Extreme on the ball's stretched pose.See the full screen
Not every key is an extreme, and that is fine. Mark a frame extreme only when it is the far end of a movement, so the label keeps meaning something.
Pro note
Squash it, stretch it, then push it one notch further. Timid extremes make timid animation.

7Find the breakdowns

Between two keys, one drawing decides the whole flavour of the move: the breakdown. It is not just the halfway pose, it is where you choose whether a limb leads or drags, whether the path arcs high or low. Draw that transitional drawing and set its frame role to breakdown. A good breakdown is the difference between a stiff robot and a arm that swings with life, so spend real care here.

Frame role set to Breakdown on the drawing between two keys.
Frame role set to Breakdown on the drawing between two keys.See the full screen
Breakdowns are where hand-drawn animation gets its character. Two animators with the same keys but different breakdowns make two completely different performances.
Pro note
The breakdown is where the personality hides. Lead with the hips, trail the hand, and suddenly it feels like someone.

8Fill the inbetweens

Now the humble in-between drawings, the frames that carry the eye smoothly from one pose to the next. Draw them and tag their frame role tween so the strip shows them as the connective tissue they are. Space them tight where the motion is slow and wide where it is fast, this spacing is your timing, and it is entirely in your hands here since nothing interpolates for you. Keep them on the arc the breakdown set, straight-line inbetweens feel mechanical.

Frame role set to Tween on an in-between drawing.
Frame role set to Tween on an in-between drawing.See the full screen
There is no auto-tweening on an Art row, on purpose. Every tween is a drawing you make, which is exactly why hand-drawn animation has that living quality.
Pro note
Tight spacing reads slow, wide spacing reads fast. Your whole sense of weight comes from how far apart these drawings sit.

9Turn on onion skin

You cannot draw the next frame well without seeing the last one. Click the Onion eye and the frames around the playhead appear as faint ghosts under your current drawing. Past frames ghost in red, and the forward stepper +N shows future frames ahead of you as green ghosts, so you can sandwich a new inbetween exactly between the drawing before and the drawing after. Bump the forward count up when you want to see further along the arc.

Onion skin on in the drawing surface: earlier and later frames show as faint ghosts.
Onion skin on in the drawing surface: earlier and later frames show as faint ghosts.See the full screen
Red is behind you, green is ahead of you. Line your new drawing up so it sits neatly between the two ghosts and your spacing stays honest.
Pro note
Onion skin shows the frames around you. Red is where you came from, green is where you are going. Draw into the gap.

10Hold on ones or twos

Most traditional animation is not a new drawing every single frame, that is animating on ones, and it is smooth but expensive. Holding each drawing for two frames is on twos, and it is the classic look that carries most character work. Set the per-frame Hold field to control how long a drawing lingers, the readout tells you plainly whether you are on ones or on twos. For a scene-wide feel, the stepped playback toggle On 1s, On 2s, or On 3s holds every drawing for that many frames during playback.

Hold set to 2, so this drawing plays on twos.
Hold set to 2, so this drawing plays on twos.See the full screen
Fast action often wants ones so it does not strobe, while dialogue and gentle motion sit fine on twos. On threes reads as a deliberate, choppy, stylised beat.
Pro note
On twos is the standard. Save ones for the whip-fast bits where twos would flicker.

11Play it back and loop

Drawings only become animation when they move, so watch it constantly. Hit Play to run the scene and Stop to pause, and turn on Loop to run a cycle over and over while you judge the timing. To inspect a single beat, step with Previous keyframe and Next keyframe to hop between your marked frames instead of scrubbing one frame at a time. If a move feels wrong, it almost always shows on the third or fourth loop.

The playback bar with Stop showing while it plays and Loop turned on.
The playback bar with Stop showing while it plays and Loop turned on.See the full screen
Judge motion by playing it, never by staring at one frame. A pose that looks stiff frozen can read perfectly in motion, and the reverse is just as true.
Pro note
Loop it until you stop seeing drawings and start seeing a performance. That flip is what you are after.

12Buy room with Insert frames and Markers

Timing rarely survives first contact, so you will need to add room mid-scene. Use Insert frames, tell it how many Frames to insert, and hit Insert, everything after the playhead shifts later to make space for the drawings you want to add. To keep your bearings, drop a Marker at the playhead on important beats, then hop between them with Jump to previous marker and Jump to next marker. Markers do not print or play, they are just your own signposts.

The Insert frames at frame 1 dialog: Frames to insert, then Insert.
The Insert frames at frame 1 dialog: Frames to insert, then Insert.See the full screen
Insert frames pushes everything downstream later, so add your holds and inbetweens where they belong rather than cramming drawings into a fixed length.
Pro note
Mark your beats. When a shot gets long, jumping marker to marker beats scrubbing frame by frame every time.

13Mix hand-drawn with a rigged character

You do not have to choose one style for a whole scene. Keep your Art row for the hand-drawn passage, then click the Character add-row button to drop a reusable rigged character in as a live instance beside it. Now a posed puppet and your frame-by-frame drawings share one stage and one timeline, playing together layered by row order. Draw a splash of hand-animated water in front of a rigged character walking through it, or a rigged body with a wildly hand-drawn face.

The Insert Kitt Frost dialog, adding the Kitt Frost rig as a character row.
The Insert Kitt Frost dialog, adding the Kitt Frost rig as a character row.See the full screen
Row order is depth order for mixed scenes too. Put the Art row above the Character row if the drawing should sit in front, and below it if the drawing should sit behind.
Pro note
Best of both worlds. Let the rig do the walk cycle and hand-draw the moment the face goes properly bananas.

14What good looks like

A finished frame-by-frame scene reads clearly at speed: keys land where the story wants them, breakdowns give each move a personality, and spacing carries real weight. Loop it with onion skin off and check that nothing pops, jitters, or drifts off its arc. When it plays clean, publish it, the animation plays inline for readers and can become a Short. The in-engine frame and GIF exporter exists too, but Publish is the finish that readers actually see.

The animation's Publish tab: a draft, Not approved and Not published until you publish it.
The animation's Publish tab: a draft, Not approved and Not published until you publish it.See the full screen
Do a final loop at full speed with a fresh eye, ideally the next day. Jitters you stopped noticing after an hour of drawing jump right out when you come back cold.
Pro note
When it loops and you forget you drew every frame, you are done. That is the good stuff. Go publish it.

Draw a scene by hand

Rough, refine, flip, ship. Links into the app. Saved on this device.

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Frame-by-frame questions

Add an Art row from the add-row bar, put the playhead on the frame you want, and click Draw this frame. That opens the drawing surface for that one frame. Step the playhead forward and use Draw again for the next drawing. Each frame is its own independent picture.

No, and that is by design on an Art row. Every inbetween is a drawing you make yourself, which is what gives hand-drawn animation its living quality. Auto-interpolation lives on rigged and keyed rows, not on the frame-by-frame Art row.

They are labels you assign per frame to organize your plan. Keys are the storytelling poses, extremes are those poses pushed to their limit, breakdowns are the character-defining transitions between keys, and tweens are the connective inbetweens. They colour the frame on the strip so your plan is visible at a glance.

On ones means a new drawing every frame, which is smooth but twice the work. On twos means each drawing is held for two frames, the classic look that carries most character animation. Set the per-frame Hold field, or use the On 1s, On 2s, On 3s playback toggle for the whole scene. Read the on ones or on twos readout to confirm.

Click the Onion eye. Past frames ghost in red under your drawing, and the forward stepper +N shows future frames as green ghosts. Line your new inbetween up so it sits neatly between the red and green ghosts to keep your spacing honest.

Use Insert frames. Enter how many frames to insert and click Insert, and everything after the playhead shifts later to make room. Drop Markers on your key beats first so you can jump straight back to them afterward.

Yes. Keep your drawings on an Art row and add a rigged character with the Character add-row button as a live instance. They share one stage and timeline and play together, layered by row order. Put the Art row above or below the Character row to control which sits in front.

Publish it. The animation plays inline for readers and can become a Short. There is also an in-engine exporter for frame sequences and Animated GIF, but Publish is the reader-facing finish and the one to reach for.

You drew it to life

Keys, extremes, breakdowns, tweens, onion skin, holds, and a clean loop, all by your own hand. Frame-by-frame is the most honest animation there is, and now it is in your toolkit. Next up, learn to fake weight and bounce without drawing every wobble, using springy Dynamic bones.