FoundryInk Academy Academy / Animation course
Animation course

Warp, Squash, and Skew

Bones bend a figure at its joints, but sometimes you want to push a whole piece of art around: squash a ball as it lands, stretch a character as they leap, tilt a sign into perspective. That is the Warp tool. It puts a four-corner cage around your art, and you drag the corners on the stage to reshape the lot. This page covers what warp does well, the one limit it has, and how to pair it with bones.

Read time about 14 min

1What warp is for

Squash and stretch is the oldest trick in animation: things flatten when they hit and stretch when they fly, and that deformation sells weight and speed. Bones cannot do this on their own because they bend at joints rather than reshaping a whole piece. The Warp tool fills that gap by letting you deform an entire layer at once, so a landing thumps, a jump zings, and a rigid drawing suddenly has some give to it.

Warp works on the whole piece of art on a layer, not on individual points. It is for big, gestural reshaping, not fine detail, like moving the corners of a rubber sheet.
Pro note
Squash on impact, stretch on the leap. That give is what sells weight. Bones bend joints, Warp reshapes the whole drawing.

2Find the Warp tool

Select the layer you want to deform, then pick Warp from the Layer tools in the Tool Options bar. A cage appears around your art with a handle at each corner, and the on-screen hint says it plainly: drag the four corners on the stage. That cage is the whole interface. Everything you do with warp is a matter of dragging those four handles to new positions.

The Warp button in the Layer group of the tool rail, left of the stage.
The Warp button in the Layer group of the tool rail, left of the stage.See the full screen
With Warp picked, the tool options read: Drag the four corners on the stage.
With Warp picked, the tool options read: Drag the four corners on the stage.See the full screen
Warp lives with the Layer tools alongside Translate, Scale, and Rotate. If you do not see the corner cage, make sure you have the layer selected and Warp picked, not one of its neighbours.
Pro note
Pick Warp and a four-corner cage wraps your art. Four handles, nothing more. Grab a corner and start reshaping.

3The four-corner cage

The cage is a rectangle of four corners, and the art inside it stretches to follow wherever you drag them. Pull one corner out and that side of the art stretches toward it; push two corners together and the art squeezes between them. Because all four corners are independent, you can make trapezoids, leaning shapes, and pinched forms. The art always fills the shape you make with the corners, like a photo pinned at its four corners to a moving frame.

Everything between the corners interpolates smoothly, so the middle of the art follows the corners in a gentle blend. There are no handles in the interior, only the four corners drive the whole deformation.
Pro note
Four corners, and the art stretches to fill whatever shape they make. Pull, push, lean. The middle just follows along for the ride.

4Squash on a landing

For a landing, squash the art flat for a frame or two on impact. Drag the two top corners down and the two bottom corners out slightly, so the piece goes shorter and wider, as if the weight drove it into the ground. Then release it back toward its normal shape over the next few frames as it recovers. That brief flatten-and-recover is what gives a landing its thud and makes the character feel like it has real mass.

Frame 19: the crate warped shorter and wider as it lands.
Frame 19: the crate warped shorter and wider as it lands.See the full screen
Keep the volume roughly constant: as something gets shorter it should get wider, and vice versa. A squash that only flattens without spreading looks deflated rather than heavy.
Pro note
Landing? Squish it shorter and wider for a frame, then let it pop back. Keep the volume honest and it lands with a satisfying thud.

5Stretch on a leap

A leap or a fast move wants the opposite: stretch. Drag the corners so the art gets taller and thinner along the direction of travel, elongating it as if speed were pulling it. A stretched frame or two during the fastest part of a jump reads as zip and energy, and it smooths the motion so the piece does not look like it is teleporting between poses. Return to normal proportions as the movement slows.

Stretch along the line of motion, not just straight up. A character leaping to the right should stretch toward the upper right, following its path, so the deformation matches the direction of travel.
Pro note
Leaping? Stretch it long and thin the way it is heading. A frame or two of stretch is pure zoom. Then ease it back to normal.

6Skew and tilt into perspective

The four corners also let you skew, which is brilliant for perspective and lean. Offset the top corners sideways from the bottom ones and the art slants, so a running character can lean into the sprint or a falling sign can tip as it topples. Make the far edge shorter than the near edge and you fake a simple perspective, handy for a banner turning away from camera or a card flipping. Skew adds attitude that a straight scale never could.

Frame 9: the sign's corners offset so the art leans to one side.
Frame 9: the sign's corners offset so the art leans to one side.See the full screen
A little lean goes a long way. Skewing a character slightly into the direction they are moving adds energy and intent; overdo it and they look like they are falling over.
Pro note
Slide the top corners sideways and the art leans. Great for a running tilt or a sign tipping over. A touch of lean equals a lot of attitude.

7Reset warp when you overshoot

Deforming freely means it is easy to go too far and mangle your art. When that happens, use Reset warp to snap the cage back to its original rectangle and return the piece to its undeformed shape. It is a clean escape hatch: no undoing corner by corner, just one button back to square one. Reach for it whenever a warp gets away from you and you want a fresh start.

Reset warp clears the deformation on the selected layer. If you only want to soften an over-warp rather than lose it entirely, nudge the corners back by hand instead of resetting.
Pro note
Warped it into modern art by accident? Reset warp puts it right back to a clean rectangle. One button, no regrets.

8Key the warp over time

A warp only becomes squash and stretch when it changes across frames. With Auto-key on, move the playhead to the impact frame and warp the art there, then move to the recovery frame and warp it back toward normal. The studio keys the corner positions and blends between them. Space these tightly, because squash and stretch live on just a frame or two: a slow warp looks like melting, a quick one looks like a hit.

Squash and stretch belong on the extremes, held for the shortest time. One or two frames of a strong warp reads as impact; the same warp held for ten frames just looks broken.
Pro note
Warp needs to change over time to read. Key a squash on the impact frame, key it back a frame or two later. Fast, or it looks like melting.

9Anticipation and follow-through

Warp shines on the frames around an action, not just the action itself. Add a small squash of anticipation just before a jump, as the character crouches to spring, then the stretch on the way up, then a squash again on the landing. This squash, stretch, squash rhythm is the classic bounce, and warping the whole piece is the fastest way to get it. The eye reads that little wind-up and pay-off as life and intention.

Frame 4: a small squash as the crate crouches before the jump.
Frame 4: a small squash as the crate crouches before the jump.See the full screen
The pattern is anticipate, act, settle. A squash before, a stretch during, and a squash after turns a flat jump into one that feels sprung and alive.
Pro note
Crouch, spring, land. Squash, stretch, squash. Warp the whole piece through that rhythm and a plain hop turns bouncy.

10The limit: a four-corner cage only

Warp has one clear limit. It is a four-corner cage and nothing more. There is no free-form deform mesh, no grid of many points you can push around to make a localised bulge or a rippling wave in the middle of a piece. If you have used a dense NxM deform mesh in a desktop animation app, warp is not that. It reshapes the whole layer through its four corners, which is powerful for gestural squash and stretch but cannot do fine, localised bending.

Do not fight the cage trying to make a small local bump. Warp is for whole-piece deformation. For localised bending you want bones, covered just below.
Pro note
Four corners, full stop. No free-form mesh with dozens of points here. Warp reshapes the whole piece, not a little spot in the middle.

11Shape big deformations with corners and bones

So how do you get bending the cage cannot do? You split the job. Use Warp for the whole-piece squash, stretch, and skew, and use bones for the localised bends: a bone-mesh part bends smoothly at a joint where a corner cage never could. A bouncing character might warp for the overall squash on landing while its rigged legs and hair bend with bones on top. Corners for the big gesture, bones for the detail, is the working recipe.

The Rig demo scene: a rigged picture bends at its joints with bones.
The Rig demo scene: a rigged picture bends at its joints with bones.See the full screen
Warp and a bone rig coexist on the same character. Layer a whole-piece warp over a boned puppet and you get impact squash plus articulated joints at the same time.
Pro note
Corners for the big squash, bones for the fine bends. Team them up and you get impact and articulation, no free-form mesh required.

12Do not over-warp

Because warp reshapes everything at once, heavy deformation can smear and distort your art badly, and readable characters turn into blobs. Use warp in short, punchy bursts on the extreme frames and let the art sit at its true proportions the rest of the time. If a viewer can see the warp on a held pose, it is too strong or held too long. The trick is meant to pass by in a blink, felt on the impact and gone the next moment.

Warp on the extremes, rest at normal. A piece that spends most of its time undeformed and only warps for a frame or two on the hits looks crisp; constant warping looks wobbly and cheap.
Pro note
Use warp in short bursts, not constantly. A quick squash on the hit, then back to normal. If you can see it on a held pose, it is too much.

13What good warp looks like

Good warp is felt as weight and speed, not seen as distortion. The landing thumps because the piece flattened for an instant, the leap zips because it stretched, and the run has attitude because it leans, yet on any held frame the art looks perfectly normal. It works with your bones and dynamics rather than instead of them. When your animation gains impact and bounce but nobody can point to a warped drawing, the tool is doing its job.

Play runs the crate's bounce; on a held frame the art keeps its normal proportions.
Play runs the crate's bounce; on a held frame the art keeps its normal proportions.See the full screen
Play it at full speed to judge warp. Frame by frame the squashed extremes look extreme on purpose; only at speed do they read correctly as weight and snap.
Pro note
You feel the thump and the zip, but every held frame looks clean. That is warp done right. Impact you sense, distortion you never catch.

Add squash and stretch

Grab the corners, key the extremes. Links into the app. Saved on this device.

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Warp questions

Pick Warp for the layer, then on the impact frame drag the top corners down and the bottom corners out so the art gets shorter and wider. Key it there with Auto-key on, then key it back toward normal a frame or two later as it recovers.

No. Warp is a four-corner cage, not a free-form deform mesh. There is no grid of interior points to push around for a local bump. Warp reshapes the whole piece through its corners; for localised bending, use bones instead.

You have over-warped. Warp belongs in short bursts on the extreme frames, held for a frame or two, then released back to normal proportions. If the warp is visible on a held pose, it is too strong or held too long. Ease the corners back, or use Reset warp.

Use Reset warp to snap the cage back to its original rectangle and return the art to its undeformed shape in one step. If you only want to soften an over-warp rather than clear it, nudge the corners back by hand instead.

Scale resizes the whole piece uniformly or along one axis while keeping it rectangular. Warp moves each of the four corners independently, so you can make trapezoids, leans, and perspective tilts that Scale cannot, as well as non-uniform squash and stretch.

Yes, and you often should. Use warp for whole-piece squash, stretch, and skew, and use bones for localised joint bends. A character can warp for a landing squash while its rigged legs and hair bend with bones at the same time.

It is changing too slowly across frames. Squash and stretch live on just a frame or two at the extremes. Space your warp keys tightly so the deformation snaps rather than oozes. A slow warp reads as melting; a fast one reads as impact.

Your art has give and bounce

You learned to grab the four corners and squash on a landing, stretch on a leap, and lean into a run, all while knowing exactly where the cage stops and bones take over. That give is what turns stiff motion into animation with real weight. Next, get flowing, tapered shapes like tails and hair bending beautifully with drawn shapes and smart binding.