FoundryInk Academy Academy / Animation course
Animation course

Animation Cycles and Loops

A walk, a breathing idle, a spinning wheel, a flickering torch. So much of animation is motion that repeats, and you should never hand-key the same steps a dozen times. Instead you animate one clean lap and let the studio loop it. This tutorial covers the whole cycle workflow: the Cycle interpolation mode that makes motion repeat, the Loop transport toggle for previewing it, per-frame Hold for working on ones or twos, and the craft of making a loop truly seamless.

Read time about 15 min

1Why cycles matter

A cycle is a piece of motion that repeats seamlessly: one stride of a walk that plays over and over as the character crosses the screen, one rise and fall of a chest as it breathes, one turn of a wheel. The point is economy: you animate a single loop's worth of poses and reuse it indefinitely, instead of keying every step across a long shot. Cycles are the backbone of character locomotion and idle motion, and once you are comfortable with them you get a lot of animation for very little keying.

A rigged character on the stage of the Animation studio, with the timeline transport below.
A rigged character on the stage of the Animation studio, with the timeline transport below.See the full screen
The best cycles are hard to spot: the audience never catches the repeat. If a viewer can count your loops, the cycle is either too short or not seamless. Aim for motion that reads as continuous.
Pro note
Animate one step, get a whole walk. That is what cycles do, and it is worth learning. This tutorial builds one.

2The Cycle interpolation mode

The tool that makes motion repeat is the Cycle interpolation mode, one of the options alongside Linear, Smooth, Step, and the eases. You set it the same way you set any interpolation: right-click a key in the Motion Graph and choose Cycle from the Interpolation menu, or pick it from the Interp dropdown in the inspector. Applied to a keyed section, Cycle repeats that section's motion forward through time automatically, so the values loop instead of settling at the last key. This is the single feature that turns one lap into an endless run.

Right-clicking a key in the Motion Graph opens the Interpolation menu, with Cycle at the bottom.
Right-clicking a key in the Motion Graph opens the Interpolation menu, with Cycle at the bottom.See the full screen
The Interp dropdown in the inspector sets the interpolation for new keyframes.
The Interp dropdown in the inspector sets the interpolation for new keyframes.See the full screen
Because Cycle is just an interpolation mode, everything you learned in the Motion Graph tutorial applies. It plays nicely with the whole timing toolkit, you are not learning a separate system, just one more mode.
Pro note
Cycle is an interp mode, same menu as the eases. Set it on your loop and the motion repeats. That one setting drives the repeat.

3Preview a loop with the Loop toggle

To judge a cycle you need to watch it run round and round, and that is what the Loop transport toggle is for. Turn on Loop next to Play, and playback repeats your scene continuously instead of stopping at the end. This is essential for cycle work, because a loop's flaws only show up when it wraps from the last frame back to the first. Leave Loop on the whole time you are building a cycle, and keep the scene playing while you tweak, so every change is judged in motion, in context.

The Loop toggle beside Play in the transport.
The Loop toggle beside Play in the transport.See the full screen
The scene playing with Loop on: the Play button reads Stop while it runs.
The scene playing with Loop on: the Play button reads Stop while it runs.See the full screen
Loop is a preview toggle, it repeats playback so you can study the motion, and it is separate from the Cycle interpolation that actually repeats the values. Use both together while building: Cycle to make the loop, Loop to watch it.
Pro note
Loop the playback, watch it go round. The wrap from last frame to first is where flaws hide, so keep it looping and keep looking.

4The golden rule: first and last pose must match

This is the one rule that makes or breaks a cycle. For a loop to be seamless, the first pose and the last pose must match, so that when playback wraps from the end back to the start there is no visible jump. A cycle is a circle, not a line: the end has to hand off perfectly to the start. In practice you build the loop so the final keyframe is an exact copy of the first, then let the motion between them do the work. Get this right and the repeat becomes invisible.

Frame 1 of the loop: the pose the last frame has to match.
Frame 1 of the loop: the pose the last frame has to match.See the full screen
The easiest way to guarantee a match is to copy your first keyframe's pose onto the last frame of the cycle. Identical start and end means a clean wrap, every time. It is the first thing to check when a loop hitches.
Pro note
A cycle is a circle. If the end does not line up with the start, you get a hiccup on every lap. Make those two poses identical.

5Anatomy of a walk cycle

A classic walk breaks into a handful of key poses you can block just like any move. The contact pose (front foot planted, back foot pushing off) is the anchor, and a walk has two of them, one for each foot. Between contacts sit the passing pose (the moving leg swinging under the body), the down (weight lowest, absorbing impact), and the up (body pushed to its highest). Block these extremes first, exactly as you learned when posing your first move, and you have the skeleton of a walk before any looping.

A full walk cycle is two steps, left and right, so the character does not limp. Build one step's poses, then mirror them for the other foot, and make the last frame return to the very first contact.
Pro note
Contact, down, passing, up, then the other foot. Block those big poses and you are most of the way to a walk already.

6Block the cycle's poses

Build the loop like any move: in Animate mode with Auto-key on, use the Pose tool to set each key pose at its frame along the timeline. Space the contacts, downs, ups, and passing poses evenly so the rhythm is steady. Keep the poses clean and readable, a cycle exaggerates every flaw because you see it over and over. Work in Step interpolation while blocking so you can judge each pose as a crisp hold, then bring in motion once the poses read well. This is the same blocking discipline from your first-move tutorial, applied to a loop.

Auto-key switched on in the tool column, so each pose you set is keyed at the playhead.
Auto-key switched on in the tool column, so each pose you set is keyed at the playhead.See the full screen
Nudge the whole cycle's timing by moving keys closer together (faster walk) or further apart (slower stroll). Because it is one loop, a small spacing change reshapes the entire sustained motion at once.
Pro note
Block it in Step first, same as any move. A cycle just means the last pose loops back to the first. Poses before polish.

7Apply Cycle and close the loop

With your poses blocked and the last frame matching the first, set the motion to repeat: right-click the relevant keys in the Motion Graph and choose Cycle from the Interpolation menu, or use the Interp dropdown. Now the values loop forward instead of stopping. Turn on the Loop transport toggle and play: the character should walk on and on with no stutter at the wrap. If it hitches, your first and last poses do not quite match, or a stray property was left uncycled, both easy fixes once you know to look.

The Interpolation menu on a Motion Graph key, with Cycle at the bottom.
The Interpolation menu on a Motion Graph key, with Cycle at the bottom.See the full screen
Check every animated property, not just the legs. An arm swing or head bob that was not set to Cycle, or whose ends do not match, will pop on the loop even when the legs are perfect.
Pro note
Set Cycle, hit Loop, and watch your character stroll forever. When it wraps clean with no jump, that is the good stuff.

8On ones and on twos: per-frame Hold

How many distinct drawings per second a cycle shows changes its whole texture, and you control that with the per-frame Hold field. Its readout says on ones (a new pose every frame, ultra-smooth) or on twos (each pose held for two frames, the classic hand-drawn look that most animation uses). Working on twos gives motion a traditional snap and halves the drawings you fuss over; on ones is smoother and suits fast or realistic action. Set the Hold to suit the feel you want for the cycle.

The per-frame Hold field in the Frame panel.
The per-frame Hold field in the Frame panel.See the full screen
Most character animation sits on twos: it looks intentional and reads as hand-crafted. Switch to ones only for very fast motion where twos would strobe or look choppy. Mixing is fine too.
Pro note
On twos is the classic hand-drawn heartbeat. On ones is glassy smooth. Twos for charm, ones for speed. Try both and feel it.

9Preview the texture with stepped playback

Alongside per-frame Hold, the transport has a stepped playback toggle reading On 1s, On 2s, or On 3s that previews your scene as if it were held on that many frames, without changing your actual keys. It is a fast way to check how your cycle would feel on twos or threes before committing. Flip it to On 2s and loop the walk to sample that hand-drawn cadence instantly. If you like it, set the per-frame Hold to match; if not, flip back. It is a try-before-you-commit preview.

The stepped playback toggle reading On 1s.
The stepped playback toggle reading On 1s.See the full screen
The same toggle switched to On 2s.
The same toggle switched to On 2s.See the full screen
Stepped playback only samples the preview, the playhead and any audio keep real time, so a scene genuinely timed on ones is untouched. It is purely a way to feel a different cadence before you bake it in.
Pro note
Stepped playback lets you taste twos or threes without changing a thing. Flip it on, loop the walk, see if you like the cadence.

10Idles and other repeating motion

Cycles are not just for walks. An idle, a character standing but alive, is a gentle cycle: a slow chest rise and fall for breathing, a subtle weight shift, maybe a blink. Build one loop of that soft motion, match first and last poses, set Cycle, and your character stays alive whenever they are not doing anything else. The same approach loops a spinning wheel, a bobbing float, a waving flag, or a flickering flame (pair a flame's flicker with a touch of Noise so it never looks mechanical).

Every standing character wants an idle cycle, a perfectly still figure looks dead. Even a two-second breathing loop makes a scene feel populated by living things rather than paused statues.
Pro note
Breathing idles make the difference. A tiny looping chest rise, and your character stops looking like a cardboard cutout.

11Making the wrap truly seamless

If a loop hitches, work through the usual suspects. First, confirm the first and last poses are identical, the most common cause of a jump. Second, check the interpolation across the wrap: the motion leaving the last key should flow into the first key just as smoothly as any interior segment, so tune the easing there too. Third, hunt for a single property, an arm, a tail, an eyebrow, that was not cycled or whose ends do not match. Fix these one at a time, looping constantly, and the seam disappears.

The Motion Graph, where the curve leaving the last key should flow into the first.
The Motion Graph, where the curve leaving the last key should flow into the first.See the full screen
Use two-way Onion skin to overlay the first and last frames and spot mismatches directly. If the ghosts do not line up, you have found your hitch. It is the fastest way to diagnose a seam.
Pro note
A hitch is almost always one of three things: mismatched ends, rough easing across the wrap, or one forgotten property. Hunt them down.

12The cycle mode toggle is not surfaced

One limit to know about. In some desktop animation tools you can flip a cycle between an absolute mode (the motion repeats in place) and a relative mode (each loop offsets from the last, useful for motion that should accumulate, like travelling forward). FoundryInk does not surface that absolute-versus-relative cycle toggle; there is only the single Cycle interpolation option. Cycle covers the common case, a repeating in-place loop, which is what walks, idles, wheels, and flames all need. For travel, move the character or camera separately.

To make a walk actually cross the screen, cycle the legs in place and separately animate the whole character (or the camera) travelling. Keeping locomotion and travel on different controls is a clean, standard way to work anyway.
Pro note
No absolute-versus-relative cycle switch here, just Cycle. It handles the everyday loop. For travel, move the character on top of it.

13Turn a great cycle into an action

Once a cycle looks right, save the effort. Record it as an Action in the Actions panel with Add action, and you can stamp that walk or idle back onto the timeline anytime with the per-row Apply button ("Stamp these keyframes onto the timeline"). That means a reusable walk you build once and drop into any scene, or a library of idles you reach for again and again. A polished cycle is an asset, not a one-off, treat it like one and your future scenes come together far faster.

The Actions panel: name an action, then Add action.
The Actions panel: name an action, then Add action.See the full screen
A saved Wave action with its Apply button.
A saved Wave action with its Apply button.See the full screen
Name your saved cycles clearly, "Walk cycle", "Idle breathe", "Run cycle", so you can find them fast later. Double-click an action row to rename it if you named it in a hurry.
Pro note
Bank a good walk as an Action and reuse it forever. Build your loop once, spend it a hundred times. Work smart.

14What a good loop looks like

You know a cycle is finished when you can loop it for a full minute and never catch the repeat: no stutter at the wrap, no property popping, a steady rhythm, and motion that reads as continuous life. The feet plant without sliding, the arms swing in believable arcs, the breathing rises and falls evenly. Play it with Loop on and just watch for a while, if nothing snags your eye, you are done. Save it, bank it as an action if it is reusable, and you have a piece of animation that works forever for free.

The scene looping at frame 46 of 48, about to wrap back to frame 1.
The scene looping at frame 46 of 48, about to wrap back to frame 1.See the full screen
Watch a finished cycle at least a dozen laps before you call it done. Flaws that hide in one pass jump out on the tenth. Patience at this stage is what makes a loop truly invisible.
Pro note
Loop it a minute. If you cannot spot the seam, nobody can. That is a finished cycle, and it will serve you forever. Nicely done.

Build a seamless cycle

Block, match the ends, set Cycle, loop-preview, tune the holds. Links into the app. Saved on this device.

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Cycle questions

Use the Cycle interpolation mode. Right-click the relevant keys in the Motion Graph and choose Cycle from the Interpolation menu, or pick it from the Interp dropdown. Applied to a keyed section, Cycle repeats that section's motion forward through time instead of settling at the last key.

Cycle is an interpolation mode that actually makes the animated values repeat. Loop is a transport toggle that repeats playback so you can watch the motion run round and round. You use both together when building a cycle: Cycle to create the loop, Loop to preview it.

Almost always the first and last poses do not match, so there is a visible jump at the wrap. The fix is to make the final keyframe an exact copy of the first. Also check the easing across the wrap and hunt for any single property that was not cycled or whose ends do not line up.

The per-frame Hold field controls it. On ones shows a new pose every frame for ultra-smooth motion. On twos holds each pose for two frames, the classic hand-drawn look that most animation uses. Twos read as intentional and hand-crafted; ones suit fast or realistic action.

Use the stepped playback toggle in the transport, reading On 1s, On 2s, or On 3s. It previews the scene as if held on that many frames without altering your actual keys, so you can taste a cadence before committing. If you like it, set the per-frame Hold to match.

Build an idle cycle: one loop of gentle motion like a slow chest rise and fall for breathing, maybe a subtle weight shift or a blink. Match the first and last poses, set Cycle, and the character stays alive whenever they are idle. A perfectly still figure looks dead, so every standing character wants one.

No. FoundryInk does not surface an absolute-versus-relative cycle toggle; there is only the single Cycle interpolation option, which repeats motion in place. That covers walks, idles, wheels, and flames. To make a walk travel across the screen, cycle the legs in place and separately animate the character or camera moving.

Record it as an Action in the Actions panel with Add action, then stamp it back onto the timeline anytime with the per-row Apply button. Name it clearly, like Walk cycle or Idle breathe, so you can find and reuse it across scenes. A polished cycle is a reusable asset, not a one-off.

Loop it for a full minute and watch: no stutter at the wrap, no property popping, a steady rhythm, feet that plant without sliding, and motion that reads as continuous life. If nothing snags your eye across a dozen laps, it is done. Flaws that hide in one pass jump out on the tenth.

Your motion runs forever now

One clean lap, looping seamlessly, walks, idles, wheels, and flames all built from a single matched loop. You know the Cycle mode, the Loop preview, per-frame Hold for ones and twos, and the golden rule that the first and last pose must match. Next, step away from the timeline and back to the artwork itself, the vector drawing tools that make everything you rig.