FoundryInk Academy Academy / Animation course
Animation course

The Motion Graph

Two poses can feel lazy or punchy depending entirely on how the studio travels between them. That how is interpolation, and the Motion Graph is where you see and shape it. A value becomes a curve you can bend, and every bend changes the feeling of the move: weight, snap, ease, bounce. This tutorial is a full tour of the Motion Graph and every interpolation mode, explained not by definition but by feel, so you know which one to reach for.

Read time about 16 min

1Find the Motion Graph

The timeline has four view tabs: Frames, Channels, Sequencer, and Motion Graph. Click Motion Graph to switch into it. Where Frames shows your keys as little markers, the Motion Graph plots a single property's value up the vertical axis against time along the horizontal axis, so a bone's rotation over your shot becomes a line that rises and falls. This is the view animators work in for timing, because it shows not just when things happen but exactly how the value moves in between.

The timeline's view tabs: Frames, Channels, Sequencer and Motion Graph.
The timeline's view tabs: Frames, Channels, Sequencer and Motion Graph.See the full screen
Switch to Motion Graph the moment a move feels off but the poses look right. Nine times out of ten the problem is not the poses, it is how the value travels between them, and only this view shows that.
Pro note
Frames shows where the keys are. Motion Graph shows the path between them. That path is where all the feeling hides.

2A value is a bendable curve

Here is the mental shift that makes everything click. Every animated property, a bone's angle, a layer's position, a camera's zoom, is a value that changes over time, and the Motion Graph draws that change as a curve between your keyframes. The shape of that curve is the timing. A steep part of the curve means the value is changing fast; a flat part means it is barely moving. So a move is not just its poses, it is the shape of the line connecting them, and you can bend that line by hand.

The Motion Graph plotting one value as a curve between two keyframes.
The Motion Graph plotting one value as a curve between two keyframes.See the full screen
Read the slope like a speedometer. Steep equals fast, flat equals slow or held. Once you see curves as speed, you can diagnose a bad move just by looking at its shape.
Pro note
The curve is speed drawn on paper. Steep is quick, flat is slow. Learn to read it and you can fix timing with your eyes.

3Two ways to set interpolation

You choose how a value travels between two keys with its interpolation mode, and there are two ways to set it. In the Motion Graph, right-click a key and pick from the Interpolation menu. Or use the Interp dropdown in the inspector. Both offer the same set of modes. The interpolation you pick applies to the segment leaving that key, so a single move can use different modes at different keys, snappy out of one pose, gentle into the next. This per-key control is where timing craft really lives.

Right-clicking a key opens its Interpolation menu: Linear, Smooth, Step (hold), Ease in and more.
Right-clicking a key opens its Interpolation menu: Linear, Smooth, Step (hold), Ease in and more.See the full screen
The Interp dropdown in the inspector, set to Smooth.
The Interp dropdown in the inspector, set to Smooth.See the full screen
Interpolation is set per key, not per whole animation. That means you can mix modes freely along one property, which is exactly how real timing is built, segment by segment.
Pro note
Right-click for the quick menu, Interp dropdown for the same list. Same choices, pick whichever is closer to your hand.

4Linear: the constant, robotic travel

Linear moves the value at a perfectly constant speed from one key to the next, drawn as a straight line on the graph. Because nothing living moves at a dead-constant rate, Linear reads as mechanical: a robot arm, a conveyor belt, a sliding elevator, a bouncing ball's flight before gravity is added. It has no ease in or out, so it starts and stops abruptly. Use Linear on purpose when you want that machined, no-nonsense feel, and avoid it on anything that should feel alive.

A Linear tween: a straight line between the two keys.
A Linear tween: a straight line between the two keys.See the full screen
Linear is right more often than beginners think, mechanical objects, steady rotations, a spinning gear. It only looks wrong when you use it on something that should have weight, like a character's limb.
Pro note
Linear is the metronome. Great for machines, deadly for characters. Straight line, straight face, no personality.

5Smooth: the gentle, natural default

Smooth eases the value in and out of each key so the curve rounds off at both ends, giving soft, natural motion with no hard starts or stops. It is the comfortable default for most organic movement: a head turning, a hand drifting, a gentle sway. Because it slows near the keys and speeds up in the middle, it reads as relaxed and lifelike. If you are not sure what a move wants, Smooth is a safe starting point you can sharpen later with easing or curve handles.

A Smooth tween: the curve rounds off at both keys.
A Smooth tween: the curve rounds off at both keys.See the full screen
Smooth can be a touch too soft for snappy action, everything floats slightly. For punch, reach for Ease out instead. But as a default, Smooth rarely looks wrong.
Pro note
Smooth is the easy chair of interpolation. Relaxed, natural, hard to get wrong. When in doubt, start here.

6Step: the instant hold

Step (hold) does not travel at all, it holds the value flat until the next key, then jumps instantly. On the graph it draws as a staircase. This is how you get hard cuts and held poses: a character snaps from one drawing to the next with no blur of movement between, exactly the feel of limited animation, a blinking light, or a puppet clacking between mouth shapes. Step is also priceless for blocking, so you can judge your poses as clean holds before adding any in-between motion.

A Step tween: the value holds flat, then jumps, drawn as a staircase.
A Step tween: the value holds flat, then jumps, drawn as a staircase.See the full screen
Block a whole scene in Step first to check that every pose reads on its own. Then switch keys to Smooth or Ease to bring the motion in. It is a classic, disciplined way to work.
Pro note
Step just holds, then snaps. No travel at all. Perfect for hard cuts and for judging poses one clean frame at a time.

7Ease in: slowing into a stop

Ease in makes the value decelerate as it approaches the key, arriving softly rather than slamming to a halt. On the graph the curve flattens as it reaches the key. This is the feel of something settling: a hand coming to rest, a door swinging shut and easing closed, a head arriving at its final turn. Ease in gives the end of a move weight and grace. Pair it with a snappier start and you get motion that launches with energy and lands softly.

An Ease in tween: the curve flattens as it arrives at the second key.
An Ease in tween: the curve flattens as it arrives at the second key.See the full screen
Ease in is about the arrival. If a move stops too abruptly and feels jarring, add Ease in on the segment landing into that key, and the stop turns from a slam into a settle.
Pro note
Ease in is a soft landing. The move slows down as it arrives, like a plane touching the runway. This is where graceful stops come from.

8Ease out: launching with energy

Ease out is the mirror image: the value starts slow and accelerates away from the key, so the curve is flat at the start and steepens. This gives the beginning of a move a sense of building energy, the wind-up before a punch releases, a car pulling away, a character springing into action. Ease out is your go-to for snap: a pose that eases out launches crisply and reads as powerful. It is one of the most useful modes for making action feel like it has real force behind it.

An Ease out tween: the curve leaves the first key steeply, then flattens out.
An Ease out tween: the curve leaves the first key steeply, then flattens out.See the full screen
For a punchy action, Ease out of the anticipation pose and Ease in to the settle. That combination, slow start, fast middle, slow end, is the backbone of believable, weighty movement.
Pro note
Ease out is the snap. Slow, then fast. This is the mode that makes a punch feel like it actually connects. Love it.

9Ease in/out: the full smooth arc

Ease in/out combines both: the value starts slow, speeds through the middle, and slows again into the key, an S-shaped curve on the graph. It is the most naturally weighted single-segment feel, and it suits self-contained moves that both start and end at rest: a full head turn, an arm raising and stopping, a considered gesture. Where plain Smooth can feel a little floaty, Ease in/out gives a clearer sense of a deliberate move with a definite beginning and end. It is a workhorse for polished character motion.

An Ease in/out tween: an S-shaped curve, slow at both ends.
An Ease in/out tween: an S-shaped curve, slow at both ends.See the full screen
Ease in/out shines on moves that begin and end still. For continuous motion that flows into the next action, you often want just Ease out at the start and let the following segment carry on.
Pro note
Slow, fast, slow. The classic S-curve. It is what most deliberate human movements actually feel like. A true workhorse.

10Noise: organic jitter and life

Noise adds a randomised wobble to the value instead of a clean path, drawn as a jittery, irregular line. It is how you get things that should never be perfectly still or smooth: a flickering flame, a nervous tremble, a handheld-camera shake, the buzz of an insect's wings, electricity. A tiny amount of Noise on a held pose keeps a character from looking frozen and dead. Used heavily it becomes chaos and vibration. Reach for Noise whenever "too perfect" is the problem you are trying to solve.

A whisper of Noise on an idle character, or on a candle flame, is the difference between alive and mannequin. Just do not overdo it, a little irregularity goes a very long way.
Pro note
Noise is the anti-perfect. A little jitter and suddenly nothing looks frozen. Great for flames, nerves, and camera shake.

11Cycle: repeat without re-keying

Cycle makes a value repeat its motion over and over instead of stopping at the last key, so you can animate one lap of a walk or one breath of an idle and let it loop automatically. On the graph the segment tiles the same shape forward through time. This is the backbone of walk cycles, idle breathing, spinning wheels, and any sustained repeating motion. You get the loop for free once the keyed section reads well, which saves you re-posing the same steps a dozen times over a long shot.

Cycle is covered in depth in its own tutorial, because a good loop needs its first and last pose to match seamlessly. Here, just know that Cycle is the interpolation mode that makes motion repeat.
Pro note
Animate one loop, let Cycle repeat it forever. Walks, idles, spinning wheels. We go deeper on this in the next lesson.

12Bounce: the springy landing

Bounce makes the value overshoot and settle in decaying wobbles, like a ball dropping and bouncing lower each time before it rests. On the graph you see a series of shrinking humps. It is the ready-made feel for anything that lands and jiggles: a dropped ball, a character thumping down from a jump, a sign swinging to a stop, a spring released. Bounce packs a lot of lively physics into a single interpolation choice, saving you from hand-keying every diminishing rebound of a settle.

Bounce is dramatic, so it can overpower a subtle move. Use it where a real bounce belongs, landings, drops, springs, and lean on Ease in for gentler settles that should not visibly rebound.
Pro note
Bounce is physics in a can. Drop, boing, boing, rest. Perfect for landings. Just do not bounce things that should not.

13Fine control with curve handles

When the preset modes are close but not exact, take manual control. Right-click a key and choose Add curve handles to attach draggable handles to the curve at that key; pulling those handles reshapes the slope directly, so you can dial in precisely how fast the value leaves or arrives. This is how you tune a move past what the presets give, a slightly sharper snap here, a gentler settle there. If your hand-tuning goes wrong, right-click and choose Reset curve handles to snap the curve back to its default shape and start over.

Curve handles added to a key: dragging a handle reshapes the slope.
Curve handles added to a key: dragging a handle reshapes the slope.See the full screen
Reach for handles only after a preset gets you most of the way. Start from Ease out or Smooth, then nudge the handles for the final ten percent. Building a curve from scratch by hand is slow and rarely necessary.
Pro note
Presets first, handles for the finishing touch. And if you tie the curve in knots, Reset curve handles is your undo button.

14Spacing and easing are weight and snap

Here is the big idea that ties the whole view together. Spacing, how far the value moves between frames, and easing, how it accelerates and decelerates, together create the illusion of weight and snap. A heavy object eases slowly and spaces its motion evenly; a snappy, light action eases out hard and spaces its frames far apart in the middle. Read the Motion Graph curve and you are literally reading weight: gentle slopes feel heavy and considered, sharp slopes feel quick and light. Shaping these curves is shaping the physical feeling of your world.

The same two poses can feel like a feather or an anvil depending only on the curve between them. That is the power of this view. Timing is not decoration, it is the physics your audience feels.
Pro note
Weight and snap are just curves. Bend the line and you bend how heavy something feels. This is the real power here.

15A workflow for timing a move

Put it together into a routine. First block your poses in Step so every key reads as a clean hold. Then switch keys to motion: Ease out of your anticipation for snap, Ease in into your settles for weight, Smooth or Ease in/out for the gentler in-betweens. Preview constantly with Play and Loop, watching the curve alongside the motion. Finally, fine-tune the stubborn segments with Add curve handles. Work coarse to fine, presets before handles, and the timing comes together quickly.

Poses blocked in Step and played back with Loop on to check the timing.
Poses blocked in Step and played back with Loop on to check the timing.See the full screen
Do not try to perfect one segment before the rest exist. Rough the whole move's timing with presets first, preview the whole thing, then polish the segments that still feel wrong. Coarse to fine, always.
Pro note
Step to block, ease to bring it alive, handles to finish. Preview the whole way. That routine turns stiff keys into a real move.

Shape a move's timing

Open the graph, read the curve, pick your easing, preview. Links into the app. Saved on this device.

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Timing questions

It plots a single property's value up the vertical axis against time along the horizontal axis, drawing the change between your keyframes as a curve. The slope of that curve is speed: steep means the value is changing fast, flat means it is barely moving or held. It shows how a value travels, not just when keys occur.

Right-click a key in the Motion Graph and choose from the Interpolation menu, or use the Interp dropdown in the inspector. Both offer the same modes, and the choice applies to the segment leaving that key, so you can mix modes freely along one property.

Linear moves at a constant, mechanical speed, right for machines, gears, and steady rotations, but stiff on anything alive. Smooth eases in and out of each key for soft, natural motion, making it the comfortable default for organic movement like a head turn or a drifting hand.

Ease in decelerates into a key, giving a soft, graceful arrival, a hand settling, a door easing shut. Ease out accelerates away from a key, giving an energetic, snappy launch, a punch releasing, a car pulling away. Combine Ease out of the start and Ease in to the end for a weighted, believable move.

Step holds a value flat until the next key, then jumps instantly, drawing as a staircase. It gives hard cuts and held poses, and it is the classic way to block a scene: judge every pose as a clean hold first, then switch keys to Smooth or Ease to bring in the motion.

Noise adds an organic, randomised jitter, right for flames, trembles, camera shake, or keeping an idle character from looking frozen. Bounce overshoots and settles in decaying wobbles, right for landings, dropped objects, and released springs. Both pack lively physics into a single interpolation choice.

When a preset mode is close but not exact, right-click a key and choose Add curve handles to attach draggable handles, then reshape the slope by hand for precise control over how fast the value leaves or arrives. If it goes wrong, Reset curve handles snaps the curve back to its default shape.

Spacing is how far a value moves between frames, and easing is how it speeds up and slows down. Together they read as weight and snap: gentle, even curves feel heavy and considered, while sharp curves with wide mid-spacing feel quick and light. The curve you draw is the physical feeling your audience senses.

Work coarse to fine. Block poses in Step, then switch keys to motion, Ease out for snap, Ease in for weight, Smooth or Ease in/out for gentle in-betweens. Preview constantly with Play and Loop, and only then fine-tune stubborn segments with curve handles. Presets before handles, always.

You can shape feeling now

The same two poses can feel like a feather or an anvil, and now you know it all comes down to the curve. You can read the Motion Graph as speed, pick the right interpolation by feel, and fine-tune with curve handles. Next, put one of those modes to work at scale, the Cycle mode, and build motion that loops seamlessly forever.